Image source: Harold Walker (the surfer in the middle and the author of this post.)
A Surfing Story by #globalite Harold Walker #mindfulmonday #beuniquelyyou
In 1955 the Korean War ended and I was discharged from the Army. I loved to surf so the first thing I did was make a bee-line to Hawaii.
A few guys were surfing Sunset Beach on the north shore of Oahu. Some of the names I remember are Pat Curran, Wayne Land and the Van Dykes. They lived in their cars on the cliff overlooking the beach. They just sat there all day every day waiting for the surf to get to 15 0r 20 feet or more. Then they would go out.
There were beautiful six to eight foot waves. Just what I wanted. But I wasn’t about to go out when those guys wouldn’t. When the surf did get big it didn’t take long to realize big wave riding was not for me.
As Clint Eastwood said, “A man has got to know his limitations”.